An Elegant Chiu Chow CNY Feast!
It
is quite difficult to find an authentic Teochew restaurant, especially one with
such splendor. I had first had a taste of Pak
Loh Chiu Chow last year their triple victory win with the Hospitality Asia Platinum Awards (HAPA)
2013 – 2015 Malaysia Series and was really pleased at this amazing Chao
Zhou, Chiu Chow or Teochew restaurant. Executive Chef Alex Au’s award winning
menu is a splendor of sumptuous true blue Teochew cuisines at its best. From
their signatures of Slow Braised Goose
to Chiu Chow Oyster Omelette to Cold Flower Crab and many more, it is
such a majestic pairing of fine Chiu Chow cuisine and opulent ambience.
This
festive season, Pak Loh Chiu Chow at
Feast Village, Starhill Gallery is
offering a traditional Teochew Chinese
New Year feast menu available from 19 January until 5 March
2015. Chef Alex and his culinary team has gone all out in creating Teochew
specialties from Chiu Chow Yee Sang with Grass Carp to other luxurious
offerings of Yee Sang variations.
There
are two CNY menus available – Four Season
Fortune Set Menu and Golden Jade Prosperity
Set Menu together with Chinese New
Year A La Carte Menu. A recent visit had us tasting some of the dishes from
each menu. The thoughts of experiencing a Teochew CNY feast are exciting and I
was truly amazed at this experience.
Chiu Chow Yee Sang is not what I had expected. The set
menu has a choice of guests opting for the classic yee sang or the Classic Chiu Chow Yee Sang with Grass Carp.
According to Chef Alex, it is not a common dish in China and most are not even
aware of yee sang. Inspired by the closes dish that resembles yee sang, Chef
Alex has prepared his version of Classic
Chiu Chow Yee Sang with Grass Carp.
Chiu
Chow cuisine relies heavily on minimal and fresh ingredients to create its
distinctive flavours. Chef Alex’s Classic
Chiu Chow Yee Sang with Grass Carp consisted of freshly sliced grass carp, preserved
radish or Choy Poh, leek, basil
leaves, raw slice garlic, coriander stalk and leaves, radish, chili, pickled
ginger, roasted peanut and a piquant galangal dressing. There really isn’t much
resemblance to our classic yee sang ingredients except the raw fish with fresh
and pickled vegetable concept. The sauce is also very different.
After
our auspicious Lou Hei, my first taste of the yee sang was a surprising one.
Unlike our classic sweet, tangy and fruit yee sang, this one mostly features
savory and umami notes. The textures and flavours rely on all the ingredients
rather than the sauce. The sauce is a concoction of blue ginger if I am not
mistaken or galangal as a general name. The sauce is savory and spicy with an
aromatic and oil based flavour of the galangal. When combined with all the
ingredients, the yee sang evoked more of savory refined salad rather than the
classic yee sang. I can taste almost each ingredient distinctively. What I enjoyed
was the whole toasty peanuts with ginger and coriander combination as I am
quite fond of these ingredients.
The
grass carp is gorgeous. In fact, I really think our classic yee sang should use
grass carp. The fish is lightly firm and has a serene sweetness with a good
bite. Although the ingredients are quite strong in flavours and textures, the
grass carp went very well as it has its own unique textures and flavours. It
may be my first Chiu Chow yee sang but it sure won’t be my last!
Teochew
cuisine does showcase lavish ingredients a lot in their cuisine. Our next
course was soup and it was a luxurious one. Double-Boiled Shark Fin Soup with Marcella sounds unique. The soup
is full of slow hours of seafood and meat essence. The deep rich golden hue
alone tells how much goes into making this soup. Then it is further enhanced by
luxurious ingredients like shark fin and Marchella,
which is actually Morchella or Morel mushrooms. The morel mushrooms
gave the soup a rich earthy taste.
Every
spoonful of soup is soothing and delicious!
The
Teochew are famous for their classic steamed fish with preserved vegetable or Ham Choy. Chef Alex had kept the fish
course as per the Teochew legacy with Steamed
Jade Fish with Preserved Vegetables, Tomatoes and Sour Plum.
Instead
of a large fish, he used three Austrailan
Jade Perch. The jade perch is soft and sweet. Crowning the fish are plenty
of preserved vegetable, fresh cuts of tomatoes, straw mushroom, coriander, bean
curd, pickled sour plums, carrot and sliced pork belly. The dish is addictive
in flavours. There is a good balance of bold sourness together with savory and
sweetness in the soup. One can taste every ingredient distinctively which is
the trademark of the Teochew cuisine. This one is pure comfort food…
I
always think one should leave certain dish to experts and Braised Pig’s Trotter with Black Moss and Vegetable is one of them.
Though the dish is quite common, Chef Alex’s version has an air of refinement. Whole
pork trotter is stewed or Hong Shao in superbly rich abalone sauce till tender
and melts-in-the-mouth. Then mushrooms and black moss or Fatt Choy is added. The pork trotter has gelatinous skin and fat
while the meat is tender and almost creamy. I can taste the luscious deep rich
abalone essence in the thick brown sauce. It is a dish that beckons for rice or
mantao to balance out the richness of the pork trotter and sauce. This is the
only dish in Pak Loh Chiu Chow that
is available for takeaway so if you enjoy pork trotter, make sure to order one!
Teochew
cuisine also focuses a lot in presentation as well as its flavours. Classic Crab Meat Ball with Vegetable and
Mushroom was the best looking dish that night. It’s literally an art as the
crab meat ball is cleverly shaped into oblong balls and decorated with
mushrooms, chili and ebiko. There are steamed and coated with a light and
translucent sauce. Blanched greens completed the dish.
The
crab meat ball is so delicious. It has a good firm texture and is elegantly
sweet from the crab. The ebiko gave the crab meat ball a light popping of
flavour and texture. Seriously, I wanted more than just one crab meat ball…
Braised Assorted Fungus with
Vegetables has
quite a list of ingredients. This vegetable course showed that the Teochew is
clever at balancing all the ingredients in their cuisine. I spied bamboo pith, Yu Yee fungus, lily bulb, mushroom,
dried oyster, water chestnut, Nai Bak,
Bok Choy, carrot, broccoli and Fatt
Choy in the dish. The ingredients are well sautéed till just right. Some
ingredients are soft while the vegetables remain crisp and crunchy. The Yu Yee
fungus is the unique ingredient in this dish and gave the dish a unique texture
and flavour. This dish is such a lovely change from the usual Chinese set menu
courses.
Did
you spy a fish in this dish?
I
simply loved the Fried Chinese Glutinous
Rice Cake Chiu Chow Style. Rice cake always symbolizes New Year and this
dish is perfect to be enjoyed during this season.
Chef Alex makes his own rice
cake with a few types of flour and cooked them the Teochew style with baby
oysters, shrimp, mushroom, egg, coriander and Tsa Cha sauce. The rice cakes are well seared on the outside and
almost gooey on the inside. The Tsa Cha sauce is almost considered as Chinese
barbeque sauce. It’s very moreish and piquant with a good smoky note. Enjoy
this with Chef Alex’s special chili sauce for extra kick. I would be happy just
enjoying this dish alone on daily basis.
We
ended the feast with much warmness and soothing heat. Double-Boiled Sesame Dumpling with Ginger and Candy Sheet Broth packed
quite a punch in flavours. The broth is laced with a strong dose of ginger
essence that immediately warm up your senses. It is strong enough to also give
the broth a spicy gingery note that lingered in the mouth for a while. There is
also a strong sweetness in the broth. The sesame dumpling is smooth and
delectable with an aromatic and nutty black sesame flavour. What a spicy ending
to a feast!
Pak Loh Chiu Chow CNY Feast Set Menu
Four
Season Fortune Set Menu
Rainbow Prosperity Yee
Sang with Salmon Trout
Classic Chiu Chow Yee
Sang with Grass Carp
Chiu Chow Style
Braised Shark’s Fin with Brown Stock
Steamed Jade Fish with
Preserved Vegetables, Tomatoes and SourPlum
Braised Pig’s Trotter
with Black Moss and Vegetable
Wok-Baked Tiger Prawn
with Chiu Chow Plum Sauce
Braised Assorted
Fungus with Vegetable
Fried Chinese
Glutinous Rice Cake Chiu Chow Style
Double-Boiled Sesame
Dumpling with Ginger and Candy Sheet Broth
4 persons at RM468++
(RM118++ additional per person)
6 persons at RM668++
(RM115++ additional per person)
10 persons at RM1088++
(RM108++ additional per person)
Golden
Jade Prosperity Set Menu
Rainbow Prosperity Yee
Sang with Salmon Trout
Classic Chiu Chow Yee
Sang with Grass Carp
Double-Boiled Shark
Fin Soup with Marcella
Steamed Marble Goby
with Preserved Vegetables, Tomatoes and Sour Plum
Braised Eel Maw and
Pork Tendon with Abalone Sauce
Classic Crab Meat Ball
with Vegetable and Mushroom
Braised Black Moss
with Dried Oyster
Chinese Wax Rice
Cooked in Clay Pot
Double-Boiled Sesame
Dumpling with Yam
4 persons at RM788++
(RM197++ additional per person)
6 persons at RM1088++
(RM182++ additional per person)
10 persons at RM1788++
(RM179++ additional per person)
It was truly a unique
feast of Teochew cuisine! Every dish stands out elegantly. Chef Alex’s
passionate nature showed in his dishes as one can taste how skillful each dish
is thought off and prepared. Flavours and textures are so refined, showing that
Teochew cuisine is just as graceful as its culture. There are other Chinese New
Year signatures like Braised Goose Webs
with Prawn Balls, Pak Loh Braised Abalone with Assorted Sea Treasures,
Authentic Grass Carp with Seasonal Vegetables and more. This festive CNY,
go ahead and feast on a Chiu Chow CNY
set menu at Pak Loh Chiu Chow for a
different dining experience!
For more details and
reservation at Pak Loh Chiu Chow,
please call +603 2782 3856.
PAK
LOH CHIU CHOW RESTAURANT
Feast Village, Feast
Floor, Starhill Gallery
181 Jalan Bukit
Bintang
55100 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 603 2782 3856
Operating Hours: Daily
12 noon to 11pm